August 5 2014, Day 34 in COLOMBIA
/August 05, 2014, Day 34 in Colombia
Today, on day 34 I'm back in Bogota after 10 days in Arauca, a historic river and town, the cradle of traditional arpa llanera. The sheer numbers of harpists and harp students, of all ages, is astonishing.
In Arauca, I enjoyed impromptu music-making every day on the wide porch at Hotel Las Mercedes, as the guest of owners Luis and Milena Rodriguez. At least a dozen local singers and instrumentalists came to the porch on one or more occasions. I also observed two private music schools, and took instruction from two excellent harpists and teachers, Nelson Acevedo (informal video setting and Milkon Garcia (video).
While in Arauca, my hosts took me overnight to their farm, where they keep a stable of riding horses as well as cattle. Luis, a veterinarian and former professor, is writing a book on the history of horses since their introduction from Spain almost 600 years ago.
More important, perhaps: Luis is a wonderful singer, as demonstrated on the hotel porch and at an evening bonfire sing-along at the farm.
Earlier, in Bogota I had spent three weeks at Academia Llano y Joropo. Master harpist Hildo Ariel Aguirre Daza established this private music school more than 25 years ago. Here I received an intense introduction into the traditional method, entirely by ear. As I have previously described, students at all skill levels are present, practicing their lessons simultaneously. The teacher moves from one to the next, with short and precise instructions. Cacophonous, but very effective.
I aspired to taking visitors on a tour, in two parts: in Bogota, a stay with Academia Llano y Joropo; in Arauca, field visits and a stay at Hotel Las Mercedes. Music: a mix of regular folks who happen to make music, as well as professionals - harpists, singers, cuatristas, maraqueros.
I first discovered the harp, as a folk instrument, in Venezuela in 1991, on a field trip with West Virginia University's College of Agriculture. I started Harping for Harmony Foundation in 1995. The first ARPATUR was in 2005. By 2011, I had made five ARPATUR trips, alone or sometimes with a friend or relative as a companion. I tried to promote ARPATUR in Venezuela, but tourism there poses various difficulties. On the other hand, Colombia offers the same musical culture but with better circumstances for travelers. Tourism is a priority, conversion of currency is easy, credit and debit cards work, cell phones work, there is good transportation and security.